explosion update

Just in case u were wondering about the blast - The "official" conclusion is that it was a gas explosion whilst the owners of the Mall maintain that their experts confirm that a gas explosion, from methane in the sewage system, could not have caused the amount of damage. They still argue it was some sort of bomb. As usual one is left not knowing who to believe. Obviously the mall owners don't want to be found liable but there are lots of more conspiracy theories around too! For now the antics of those involved in the coup are keeping us entertained along with a new set of conspiracy theories. The Philippines has been found the 10th most corrupt place in the world - Doubt that will come as a surprise to anyone!

Never a Dull Moment!

The last month has been exhausting. Prior to our “holiday” in Bohol – life felt fairly chilled and less stressful than London but Mums fall and hospitalisation made me realise just how exhausting Manila can be. Trekking backwards and forward to hospital in one part of Manila, school in yet another part and work and home far from both locations, was enormously challenging. Not having a car meant lots of taxi rides and traffic jams. Up until then our life was fairly organised as we tend to use the train to get to everywhere we need to be, within our set routines.

Having said that, Mum received wonderful care at the Chinese General Hospital in Manila, resulting in the wound mending very well after her return to the UK. She flew home business class with an accompanying nurse, probably her one and only time, and although she has taken some time to get over the ordeal she will hopefully be fighting fit for Xmas.

Her last week in the Philippines was more enjoyable, although the reality was she could not walk for long periods and easily tired, so was very much restricted in what she could do. We did get to Sonyas Garden (see pictures in earlier post) which was a huge hit with the visitors and our regular haunt Mayamaya where we had a beach front villa with fantastic views. Tagaytay itself was a disappointment for them, as it was misty on the day we were at viewing spots. However not quite as bad as when we took our last visitors Pete and Marie Line, when visibility was practically nil!

We also managed to get to Intramuros and take a horse drawn carriage around the old fort walls, have coffee and cakes at the Shandri La, a posh hotel in Makati and dinner at the Greenbelt Mall, which looked very pretty with all the Xmas lights. The kids really enjoyed “Grandmas” stay and I think Mum will remember for some time her welcome from Angelica running to the front gates screaming “shes here shes here – Grandma Grandma!”

We are busy preparing for our next visitors in 2 weeks time and hope we can follow a more traditional holiday schedule and this time avoid the local hospitals.

Of course being the Philippines we continue to be entertained by the ongoing “ soap opera “ of life here. In the last week we have had 3 Typhoons with flooding and loss of life, an earthquake and an attempted military coup!


The typhoons brought miserable wet weather to Manila and the usual confusion regarding cancelling/ uncancelling of classes and people in shelters in unaffected areas and floods in unevacuated areas! The north was badly affected by floods and landslides. Apparently we were caught in an unusual pincer movement between two of the storms, resulting in one of the typhoons doubling back on itself back into land, which is apparently very rare.

The earthquake was quite impressive as I was on 12th floor of a hotel at the time. The building swayed and I felt quite sick for the rest of the afternoon! It was the strangest feeling.. The strength was exaggerated as we were high up and whilst it was scale 6 at centre, there was no damage within Manila where it was much weaker.

Two days later we heard during lunch that Trillianes (recently elected senator, in jail pending trail regarding his role in a military coup last year) had walked out of his latest court hearing. He hadn’t fled or fought his way out, he had simply left the building and had been allowed to do so or joined by those guarding him. They headed straight to one of the poshest hotels in Manila (of course) where they called for the overthrow of the government. As we were sitting around having lunch, in the hotel where we were attending a workshop, I realised there were TV cameras and security personnel milling around us. Suddenly Estrada, the aged movie star and ex-president, (just pardoned by the current president after being found guilty of embezzling billions of pesos) got up from the next table. He and his gang were obviously gathering ready to go down to join the rebellion if it got going! We were right in the middle of the “action”.

So what did we do? Go back to our workshop of course. Along with the rest of Manila people just got on with their lives and waited to see what happened next. As it was raining it didn’t seem that the the masses would go out on the streets - Filipinos hate getting wet!

The end came fairly swiftly with true soap opera overkill! The military drove an armoured personnel carrier into the Peninsular hotel whilst firing tear gas. Meanwhile the whole thing was filmed live and broadcast by the local TV network that was INSIDE the hotel, the bishop prayed, and the public worried about whether the Xmas tree at the Penisular would get knocked over or not and everyone was irritated by the curfew at 11pm! We went out with the other volunteers for dinner and unless one had seen the news you would not be aware there had been an attempted coup…….

So whats the fallout? – Trillianes and his supporters are back in prison, the Hotel has reopened, the President is in Spain on her way to the UK with a huge entourage of supporters, on an all expenses paid trip, presumably celebrating another failed attempt to get rid of her government. The Military, police and press are arguing about whether the attempted coup should have been broadcast live or not, and the general public are just getting on with life and preparing for Xmas. They started in September and the whole country is slowly working themselves up into a tinsel adorned, jingle belled, Xmas frenzy!

Fairies- Photo Shoot at Pic a Boo SM North,The Block

Sonyas Garden in Tagaytay

Mothers latest adventure - crossing Manila floods

sportsfest and injuries

Whilst we had a great time in Bohol our fun ended rather abruptly on the Friday night about 10.30pm when Mum fell on some steps. She was initially treated in the local Hospital in Taglibaran and then in the Chinese Hospital in Manila. Her leg required 12 stitches and was complicated by an infection that required intravenous antibiotics. The insurance have covered the delay of her flight and she is now back at the house in QC. We now hope she will be well enough to do some of the trips planned for last week ,although modified for her restricted mobility, so at least she returns home with some positive memories from Manila and the surrounding area. For now she is just glad to get away from the hospital diet of fried fish and rice three times a day!

On Saturday was Giannas sports fest which was great fun. All the classes had a colour theme which parents and supporters had to follow too. This is not the whole school just year four! We had much pomp and ceremony including the oath of sportsmanship and lighting of the Olympic torch ( presumably on its way to Beijing???)

Mothers Philippines Adventures - Bohol

Photos from holiday in Bohol

Explosion

There was an explosion in one the Malls in Makati on Friday lunchtime killing 9 people. At this stage its a wide open field as to whether it was a dreadful accident or a deliberate act. What seems to be emerging in the press, is that if it was deliberate, far from being the work of a radical Muslim or Communist group - the groups that have been linked to similar acts in the past - they are pointing the fingera little nearer to home, either the military or the Palace- some commentators say the president has the most to gain from the tragedy, as it takes the heat away from the latest bribery scandals. After a weekend of debate over what sort of explosives where used - Monday has brought the revelation, that in fact no explosives have yet been identified and the blast came from a store room in the basement, where all manor of chemicals and an oil tank were stored. It may well be that this is eventually found to be caused by the prevailing poor attitude to basic health and safety - We will see - For now we don't feel any less secure as we have no indication this is anything other than an isolated event - lets hope that is the case. Try this link for a view from one of the Philippine Broadsheets http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/inquirerheadlines/nation/view_article.php?article_id=95909 and watch this space :)

Diwali Dhoom and Catwalk Capers

Last Saturday we decided to go along to a Diwali celebration being held by the Indian Womans Association. It was a fabulous night - they had a fashion show of saris along with Bollywood and traditional dancing, with all the kids joining in. The great thing was the atmosphere and of course the food - the primary reason we went along. Quite a few of Gianna's school mates were there - there is a large Indian Community in Manila and many go to Gianna's school. Gianna enjoyed the fireworks but Angelica just covered her ears!

Angelica and I had out hands hennaed......You can see Angelica on the stage in one photo (in the distance) in the arms of the winner of Indian Idol! She was less than impressed by the attention. Poor Angelica is so fed up of everyone telling her how beautiful she is ( she's fair) she just scowls and puts her tongue out! Most other people we know went along to the Hoedown being held by the Americans - That cost too much for us and although they had a free bar I heard it ran out of beer and wine by 8pm - I would have been well unhappy if we'd forked out 30 quid for a ticket!

Sunday I took the new volunteers around Manila for their street skills. Its amazing how different the places seem now. We followed the same route we took when we were newly arrived. I just remembered being overwhelmed by the number of people, the noise and the traffic..... what a difference 7 months makes...I felt quite at home showing the others about. I've added some touristy shots of Manila for a change to the traffic scenes.

Monday I had off in lieu and went to a charity fashion show.....(life is such a social whirl)....that was great fun too. It was held in one of the hotel ballrooms and in true catwalk style the champers came out at 10.30 - followed by a yummy lunch. There were lots of people I knew there I hadn't realsied just how many I have got to know in the time here. Great way to spend a day off work eating drinking and being (very) merry.

Talking of work - things are going well and I am still really enjoying it. Spent the last 6 months planing a new meeting and learning cycle with the team and integrating it into their M&E systems. Next for review is the basic training which I currently working on, with a new course planned for January. I am designing my workshops with the partners and volunteers for early next year- the aim is to get the 40 partners to institutionalise learning systems as part of our capacity building for VSO pull out in 2010. Then there's the new communication strategy for partners and volunteers and finally development of the knowledge legacy for the handover . So enough, I think, to keep me out of too much trouble.....!

There is a much more relaxed approach to kids and work here and people regularly bring their kids into work. Gianna pops by on the way home from school and does her homework in my office. Marc and Gianna often drop by to say hello or I can go and pick Angelica up from nursery and walk her home as she is only 5 mins away. I like working with the team - its a very social atmosphere which revolves around food. Filipinos eat at least 5 times a day and the mid morning and afternoon snacks are important focal points in the day. Everything stops for Merienda...Its hard to avoid actually eating ( i would be huge if I did) but they have gotten used to my strange ways and I will join them but avoid the spaghetti, donuts, noodles, buns served as snacks before lunch and dinner! Lunch is a good time to catch up on the gossip as everyone sits down together for our cooked lunch where most of the chat (Chismis) is in taglish....Marc and I are still persevering with our tagalog each week - and some of it seems to be sinking in....some :)

I am busy preparing for Mums arrival - we sort of stopped with the house when we weren't sure whether we would move. Mothers arrival is providing a catalyst, to get the few extras, we had planned to make the place more homely. I'm looking forward to the break in Bohol because although it must seem like we are always away, apart from the long weekends, its all been linked with work/workshops. The 6 days in Bohol will be the longest complete break from work since I arrived, although working at beach resorts is of course not such a hardship and I mustn't complain. It will do Gianna good to have a week off school and the early mornings and recharge all our batteries........

And finally, the latest installement from your political correspondant! Last week the senators that support the President went over for breakfast and were given bags ( not envelopes) containing between P200,000 & P500,000 (2000 and 5000 pounds), about an average annual salary! One whistle blower went public and now more and more are owing up in the press each day, to taking the bags .It has been suggested, the money is a reward for the senators support for a sham impeachment - which has given her protection from a real impeachment attempt for another year. It appears that no-one can/will say where the money came from or why the senators were given it....It makes cash for honors seem relatively tame ................!

Food "glorious" food

Some weird and wonderful foodie things from Manila -

The Ice cream thing is called Halo Halo and means mix mix . Basically its ice cream with lots of other things like sweetcorn, vegetables, beans, jelly, cream caramel, ice ....... in fact it seems that anything can go in a Halo Halo - personally I find it rather perturbing to find a sweetcorn or a haricot bean in my ice cream ! The rather bright orange things with legs are day old chicks fried! You can see the stall vendors laughing at the look on my face! They do a lot of strange things with eggs! they boil them, bury then in salted ground and colour then purple ( Very popular food colourant here - purple cakes are very common!) .

They also eat egg embryos - Balut is a popular Filipino street snack and is essentially a duck egg with a fetus inside, typically between seventeen to twenty days in gestation. It is so popular that it is equivalent to what the hot dog is in the states. There are balut vendors who push around carts full of fetal treats and bark their wares in a sing-song chant of “baluuuut, baluuuut!” Balut is also a popular aphrodisiac for men so beware the man with the embryo in his mouth ...........................

The table of vegetables are in fact "medicines" - Filipinos embrace alternative medicine - a lot of the time because they can't afford a real doctor, although there is also a deep respect for faith healers etc.. This table of goodies that claims to fix all known ills including cancer, hepatitis, fertility ..... is outside the big church in Quiapo in downtown Manila. So if praying for a cure does not work u can hedge your bets and buy some herbs to do the job instead. Even educated people tolerate the quack doctors. On an office outing, where one of staff stepped on a sea urchin, the healer was brought in to blow on her toes and announce she had been bitten by a snake!For P125 he claimed to cure her and save her life - until she had to go to a real hospital of course 2 days later for proper medicine to treat infection from sea urchins.....

Theres a huge market in wonder diet therapies and all manner of things claiming to make skin white - a national beauty obsession - along with vitamins and of course formula milk - A lot of money spent on crap cures and inappropriate nutrition by very poor people - having said that Balut is probably quite good for u although I'm not sure of the nutritional value of a day old chick!

Action Action Action

September has been a mad busy month - It started off with a volunteer conference at the Gardens of Malasag Eco Tourist resort in Mindanao for me - http://www.philtourism.gov.ph/ecom_desc.html The aim was to facilitate learning between the volunteers around the issues of conflict management , although the "open space learning" ie time at the bar and swimming pool seemed equally valuable (strange but true).

The highlight for me was the field trip on the Wednesday to another eco park - Mapawa Nature Park, where we undertook abseiling, Zip lining, canyoning and horse back riding. The riding , western style, was great! We trekked up to a hill overlooking the park where they farm 700 head of cattle- fantastic views. (Thats me action Girl in the photos)

In terms of the field trip, as Knowledge management adviser, I suggested, that the skills acqired were in fact relevent to conflict resolution - As in - get out of the conflict zone asap by whatever means necessary - The only 'real opportunity to practice my new found conflict resolution skills was on the taxi driver, on our way home after the "disco"in Cagayan De Oro. Following the huge row about why he wouldn't put the meter on (AGAIN) and the clear lack of resolution on the issue- I suspect I need to try a little harder before I'm sent anywhere as a UN peace negotiator! Note taxi drivers in Cagayan D óro are the worst in the whole Philippines - FACT!

During the workshop we were introduced to "Ridos"which are clan feuds that happen fairly regularly in Muslim Mindanao. One of the NGOs that we work with tries to prevent the clans killing one another. Islamic law has more prominence in these areas and disputes are often settled by payment of blood money. The NGO trys to avoid the spiral of violence that arises once "tit for tat' killings start - an eye for an eye approach to justice. For my colleagues in Mindanao, Ridos can regularly disrupt their work and they have to withdraw until the matter is settled. The rule of law is very different in Muslim Mindanao and has little reference to Filipino law - Its a world away from Cosmopolitan Manila. Its also true that outside Muslim Mindanao, the rest of the region is like anywhere else in the Philippines - there are some fantastic tourist spots that have until recently struggled to survive, being tainted by the "Mindanao Reputation". Camiguin is still my favourite island, yet it is in Mindanao and gets far fewer visitors than it deserves - visit now before everyone discovers it! The Peace Accord between the government and rebels is on the verge of being signed, no doubt helped by the prospect of 190 million dollars of US aid promised for the region, when completed. Hopefully this will lead to a boost in tourist activities generating much needed income for Mindanoans.

We've been to another cheese and wine frenzy this month - the 25th anniversary of the Manila Cheese Club. It was back to the Polo club for the event, where there were cheese mountains and wonderful wine! We ended up hanging out with a group of ambassadors - not sure of the collective noun for such an arrangement. The Brazilian Ambassador, who has now been posted to Pakistan, invited us over to his private residence the following week for his leaving do! Rather conveniently taking place on Marc's Birthday.

The day after the cheese club was very hard! I had to catch a 7.20 flight to Cebu for a workshop and a 9am presentation. I arrived back the next day as Marc left for Palawan - we probably crossed one another somewhere in the air! Marc accompanied a friend looking into buying property there. Palawan is often touted as the most beautiful island and has several large marine parks. Like many places it is still very underdeveloped in tourist terms. They met government officials and people who have invested in the area. They spent a lot of time riding around on the motor bike, on local boats , exploring beaches - a real road trip adventure by the sound of it.

We've had our second lot of visitors - Pete and Marie-Line from London. We took them to Nasugbu (Mayamaya Spa Resort) for the weekend- then Marc took them to Bohol for 3 days. Myself and the kids are heading down there at the end of the month with my Mum. The photo is of Marc and the little Tarsier Monkey - the smallest monkey in the world and indigenous to Bohol. They had great weather even though pouring with rain in Manila - with different weather seasons in different parts of the country, in theory it should always be possible to escape the rain somewhere in the Philippines.

Meanwhile in Manila we've been gripped by the political shenanigans of the country's politicians (again). The ex-president, Estrada, a former movie star, was found guilty of of illegally amassing about P4 billion pesos (US$81 million) in bribes and proceeds from illegal gambling. The court allowed Estrada to return to his Rizal rest house, instead of being hauled off to prison and he was then offered a presidential pardon - which he refused! Clearly its a soap opera that will run and run. This week the Philippine elections chief, who has been accused of offering bribes to a Cabinet official and a businessman, to push a Chinese broadband contract through, was forced to step down. No doubt he'll bounce back somehow b4 too long - Now Marco's family have filed to recover money they hid with their cronies, allegedly stolen from the country's coffers when they were in power! The cronies of course want to keep it and the Marcos family seem unperturbed at publicly trying to recover the money even though they can't explain how they got the money in the first place - If someone made a film - it would be called too far fetched!

And now its raining again! The monsoon rains have moved in and I'm feeling very cold and have evens switched off the AC in the office. Can't believe it but 24 degrees feels quite chilly! I have my long sleeved jumper and trousers on. I knew i'd acclimatised once I could wear my jeans out in 30 degrees and not melt....