SAN FERNANDO PAMPANGA - whips, crosses and ice cream

As promised pictures of one of the most bizarre events I have ever witnessed and that includes all the usual festival carry on! Set off at 6.30am to Pampagna which is about 100km north of Manila. Went with our language teacher Ferdie for what he termed as cultural immersion - little did I realise how literally he meant it. He explained we were going to see devote acts of penitence where penitents self flagellated and were actually crucified on Good Friday. We arrived just outside the town at about 7.30 to see find the young male flagellants warming up for their big day. They had started beating themselves with the whips of bamboo to get their back "ready" for the first cuts. The cuts were made by someone who wouldn't look out of place at a traditional gallows - big, fat with a bald head chain smoking as he did his work. He was paid 10 peso (10p) for each penitent and sliced their backs and covered in water to get the blood flowing. Given the large numbers of people using his services it was clearly a very profitable day.

The lads had their faces covered with rather pretty leaf garlands around their heads. It is traditional for the penitents to cover their faces so people didn't know who they were and traditionally they wore black sacks. Those in the black sacks would have seemed rather menacing swaying side to side in rhythm slapping their backs if it wasn't for the carnival atmosphere all around. U can see the crowds gathered in the photos - the ice cream seller got to business early selling the kids ice cream - whole families followed the "whippers" perched on top of tricycles videoing the whole show.

It soon became apparent that in this modern age black sacks were rather passe and that all manner of colourful scarves were substituted including ones with cannabis leaves on! There was rather more machismo than penitence as gangs swaggered up with cigarettes in mouths taking whips put of back pockets , limboing up for the start!!! The other thing that was noticeable was that the trousers around the bum style, popular in south London, was favoured with brand named underpants on show - white was most popular and it soon became apparent why once the blood really got going.................

The immersion didn't take long to begin as we realised the blood was being splattered all over the place from the whips and took refuge behind and then in the car!

We followed the processions to the church were the whippers lay on the floor while they were beaten some more by their friends - those without bamboo poles merely used their flip flops. Clearly the "assistants" relished their roles and also got some kudos by association - rather similar to carry the record box into a nightclub I suppose.

Then it was off to the main event! It was easy to find as we simply followed helpfully erected street signs saying "this way to Crucifixion" Now that's not a street sign u'ed find at home!

When we arrived at the site it was like arriving at cream fields except security had machine guns. If u were on the guest list u got to sit on a raised platform with a better view of the stage - press got its own raised platform - we hadn't got any eflyers or advance tickets so had to muscle down to the front for a good view of the first act.

It was a long wait in the blazing sun - luckily u could buy almost anything there from the hawkers and stalls that had set up all about - hot dogs, whips, cutters, binoculars and cycle gloves???? Surprisingly no t-shirts . Marc thinks this could be an opening for him next year! However there were very cute little Jesus effigies on sale with their own wardrobes so they can have a change of outfit each day. Surprisingly no Crucifixion accessories though -(see picture)

The whole experience was getting bizarrer by the minute when I realised I could hear REM loosing my religion in Gregorian chant being played over the loud speaker. As u can imagine what with the sun , lack of sleep and noise and mayhem from the crowd I did actually wonder whether I was hallucinating at first - the music then moved onto I can feel it (Phil Collins) and Stairway to Heaven and much worse !!!

Just before it all became too much the main act arrived and Jesus and his pals turned up. The crowd were clearly very excited. Despite being warned that there should be silence when they arrived the crowd let out loud oohhhs when the nails went in. I half expected a round of applause! We only saw the first 4 cruifixtions - well once u've seen one they're all pretty much the same! We resisted the souvenirs and decided to make an early exit and avoid the crowds. All it really needed was house music and I would have thought I was at some alternative theatre show at Glastonbury.

Whilst the whole thing was very irreligious those being crucified seemed to be taking it seriously as U suppose one would. On reflection the whole spectacle was probably much closer to how a real crufixtion was in roman times than I first suspected, with the crowds all out for the day to see the Christians strung up as oppose to being in a ,ore sombre mood. I suspect then as now those facing the hammer and nails were the only ones not in the holiday mood!

PUERTA GALERA (Batangas) - Birthday treat

After the birthday cake on Friday -made our first escape from manila (see the local traffic jam outside our gated community) for my birthday on Saturday morning. Pcitures of the cake cutting and gooey cake!! the woman in the picture is teh girls nanny lyn.

Got 8am bus from manila to the port of batangas which took just over 2 hours (but then held up for an hour in a traffic jam at port where they are building new link road) then caught a ferry over to Mindoro which took about 1 hour. We arrived on the beach at 1pm just in time for lunch. It was great to get to a beach and clear clear water. We chose a relatively expensive resort at 20 quid per night for room with air com and TV etc. http://www.coral-cove.com/ It was English run by an ex British solder who had worked with Gurkha's - for my birthday dinner we were treated to an Indian banquet which David (the Brit) puts on each Saturday night. Marc was able to watch the Man U match afterwards so was just like blighty but a little warmer - Only joking. Poor Marc is suffering terrible sports withdrawals at the moment.

On Sunday we charted a small boat (banca) to take us off to a little cove to play castaway (complete with picnic of fried chicken and chips). A guy came into shore on another boat selling shells etc and very helpfully hired us some snorkel equipment for the day. The fish and corals were amazing and Gianna did really well snorkeling. Marc went on a rather short jungle trek but dressed the part to scare off any snakes as u can see in the picture above.

The evening was rounded off in the local village were Marc had made friends with an Aussie who had set up a small bar/restaurant for philipinos. He had 6 kids all brought up in Australia and although half philipino only spoke English. The youngest was 3 and therefore adopted by Angelica as her friend. As per usual there was loud karaoke blasting from the jungle and general good natured mayhem that seems to exist everywhere, as the local fishermen celebrated someones birthday. Once again avoided actually singing but sooner or later......................

Got up early the next day and got the 7am boat back to Batangas and was back in manila by 11.30 in good time for our first Tagalog lesson at 1pm. The trip only cost a tenner for the buses and boats for all of us so we will be using this bolthole again!

The teacher Ferdie seems great and is taking us off to see the real Crucifixions on Friday as part of our lesson plan. Rather more exciting than a trip to the local catholic church - we'll be leaving the kids at home as I'm not sure they'll be that taken with the self flagellation. Bet your looking forward to the pictures next week!!!!!! Marc says hes the best language teacher he has ever had. Four hours per day is very intensive - hopefully some of it is sinking in! Although everyone speaks some English speakign Tagalog would avoid all the little misunderstandings that happen when ordering stuff asking directions etc and would hopefully mean we could avoid tourist prices!

As for house hunting saw a house yesterday which has 3 large bedrooms, living room kitchen 4 bathrooms, maids and drivers rooms all for under 300 quid per month. Very roomy but although has big outside area its concreted and shaded over by huge tree. Philipinos hate the sun and build their houses to avoid it. I would really like a garden with SUN but we may just have to go for the space and comfort for now and leave the garden till next year. the tennis courts and childrens playground are opposite so places to play for kids. (Gianna starting tennis lessons 3 times a week for the next 4 weeks)

Anyway must dash as off to meet with owner for some haggling.

More soon xxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Life in Philam Homes

All the staff at the office seem really nice although until I learn Tagalog of course they could be saying anything about me. Just celebrated my birthday at work today and I had to buy cake and Coke- double calories!! Very easy though u ring up place an order and a super large chocolate cake complete with my name iced on top arrived for 6 quid! Most things are very easy to organise here - apart from houses that is ( We are being a bit fussy and want the location, the park, the pool ,tennis, work and school all in the same place. this of course won't happen and a compromise will have to be agreed next week!)! U can get almost anything delivered even a MD Happy Meal!

I spent the first week with the other new volunteers learning about VSO and being taken to various government departments to get permits/visas sorted/open bank accounts. This week I wrote a plan of what I'll do in the first 6 months which should now involve lots of meetings on different islands. The whole family is off for 10 days the first week in June to a conference on a small island, an essential part of my inital briefing of course.

As I'm working on a project I'm left to my own devices in my own office which is fine whilst I have a 101 things to organise but I suppose the novelty may wear off. Anyway now have 5 weeks of language training before I have to do anything else. Most importantly off to our first beach trip this weekend for my birthday - lots of pictures for u all next week bet your looking forward to that eh?:) BTW the pictures are not of work - of course but our shared pool, street and laundry...............in Philam where we live. Marc and Gianna hanging out at the laundry ( thats 25p per kilo for the washing to be done for u)

The first 2 weeks

Arrived just a little hassled after an unexpected 5 hour stop over in Hong Kong. Apparently a switch fell off the dash board on the plane so we had to wait whilst someone came to fix resulting in a 2 hour delay at Heathrow and thereby missing the connection to Manila. Instead of arriving at a rather reasonable 6.30 in the evening it was almost 12 midnight by the time we got out of the Airport.

We had hooked up with Jerome a rather dashing young French man who is also a VSO volunteer - needless to say neither one of us had a number for VSO Philippines on us when things began to go pear shaped but luckily I managed to pull it off the laptop in time to call and let them know of the delay. What did we do before technology? Jerome and Marc hit if off from the start. Jerome is a marine biologist and will be based in Palawan -A rather lovely island which is rather fortunate for us, as we can go visit him.

Coming out of the airport reminded me more of arriving in Dehli than Thailand. The heat was quite oppressive and it was so loud!!! The major difference in the Philippines though is that u don't get hassled in the same way at all. People are really very nice and never seem moody - makes a change from London. The first thing that struck us was how busy it was so late at night. the roads were full everything seemed open - people seem to always be on the move . We arrived at Philam Homes which is a small gated community in Quezon City where both our guest house and the VSO office is based. Its an oasis in between 2 major roads. Very green and quiet theres a park, pool and tennis courts as well as a small supermarket, laundry barbers etc. Quezon is one of the many cities that make up Manila. Its where all the major hospitals and universities are and is apparently quite green although I can't say I've noticed.

It was lovely to escape the traffic but our journey was not quite finished as we had the wrong address and spent about 30 mins trying to work out which was the Right house. In the end we called the VSO emergency number and finally got into bed about 2.30am. (picture of house above)

NO REST FOR THE WICKED!

We all got up for breakfast the next morning and met the other new VSO volunteers. One from Holland, a Canadian , a Kenyian and of of course Jerome. I thought they were joking when they told us we were starting ICT (in country training) that morning but low and behold a member of VSO staff arrived @ 10am to take us to the office for an induction into Philippine culture. Off we went (kids incl). I was very impressed by the offices and shown my very own office. It was once a large residental house and has marble and wooden floors which makes it very cool. Its also air conditioned so it was nice to get away from the heat. We also have our own cook who cooks us a hot meal each day for 70p each and puts on fresh coffe etc in the morning!

The kids loved the induction which was a lot of fun and involved eating lots of sweets. We were then all taken to the nearest shopping mall to get photos and lunch. Shopping is a national past time for Philipinos. It is incredible the number of and the size of the malls here. They are full of all the shops we have at home including Marks and Spencers, Clarkes and Debenhams and are air conditioned and very trendy - basically most people seem to live in the malls to escape the heat and pollution thats out on the streets. They have bars cinemas, restaurants, gyms and nightclubs in. In fact u could spend your whole existence in megamall HELL. No- really they are quite nice if u like shopping which I do! Especially when its so much cheaper!

Back to our first shopping trip - we all had to have a whole photo album of photos taken for various IDs etc. You can imagine that nobody looked our best - for the rest of my time here I will forever be presenting a rather washed out faded version of me after very little sleep and a rather long journey.

The next day we were once again rounded up at 9.00 and taken out for "street skills". This was another assault on the senses and seemed to consist of taking every form of transport available in as short as time as possible. The girls loved it especially the jeepneys which are old extended US army jeeps that operate like buses. We ended up near the markets and old cathedral where masses are played onto a huge screen outside in case u can't get in. The markets were great - everything seemed to cost 20/30p whether food or clothes - mind u I wouldn't want to try and squeeze my "curvaceous" figure into some of the rather teeny weeny things on offer. DVDs were 70p for 12 films. The quality is a bit hit and miss but so far at least 50% are good and the rest at least good enough for the kids to watch.

Finally as if we hadn't been exposed to enough #new culture# we were also introduced to the other national Philippine past time which is karaoke! We stumbled across it the first time in the meat market between the dead chickens and other offal. the market workers entertaining themselves in between cutting chickens heads off. Philipinos will do Karaoke almost anywhere and take it extremely seriously. Eventually someone is going to ask me to get up which I have been told I must or be socially ostracised, God help them that's all I can say. Finally we staggered home this time in a cab but cetainly a little more enlightened.